Paige In The Savior

Paige came! I am going to use this as an excuse for not writing for so long. (Even though she was here for less than two weeks.) I will new give you a brief re-cap of her trip. Paige got in on the Thursday before Easter. We hung out in my site for 5 days. A very brave feat for most, but Paige is a champ and has spent some time working at a clinic in Honduras, so she knows what it's all about. I showed Paige all around my community. 

One of our most important stops was to visit the Mango Man. He and his wife are some of the kindest people in my community. They always seem so excited when I stop by. The Mango Man and his wife are about 75 years old. They have been together since they were 13 and married for over 50 years! The reason I call him the Mango Man is that he has over 13 species of mango trees on his property, and over 20 mango trees. Whenever I visit him during mango season, he always sends me home with a bag brimming with mangos. More mangos than I could ever eat. Mango season is great. (Side note- my host dad, Orlando, cut down a mango the other day that weighed 2.5 pounds!) So, we visited the Mango Man. While we were there, we came upon these strange plants in his yard. We asked him what they were called and he pulled one down, peeled off the skin and told us that it is used to exfoliate. He grows loofas in his yard! 

Another fun thing about the Mango Man is that he is totally ripped. I do not think I have ever seen anyone who's muscles are that visible. I mean, look at this guy ------------->








Another highlight of the trip was Easter Sunday. My host family invited us to attend a 4 am procession, followed by mass. Now, since I have lived here for over a year, I kind of assumed that we would be a part of the procession. Parades where people watch are not very common, usually everyone participates. So we get up at 3:30 am and head into the pueblo. By 4:30 everyone is ready to go. A set of people are carrying a statue of Jesus. We start walking the streets of Metapan, all the while a woman speaking into a microphone is instructing the procession when to sing and chant.

At some point the woman tells the crowd to watch out for the angel. All of a sudden a swarm of children come running up to the Jesus statue with a statue of an angel. They press them together as though they are hugging or blessing each other. Honestly we could not figure out what was going on. My host mom did not know and neither did anyone else we asked. By the end of the route, the angel had done this approach and hug routine about 7 times. Clearly it has importance, too bad everyone that got up at 4am to see it has no idea why.

For lunch we went over to my counterpart/ community health promotor/ friend's house. Orlando, Melida, their four girls, Paige and I woke our selves up from a lovely (and necessary) mid-morning nap and headed over. Salvador is recently married, but we never see his wife, so Melida and I always give him hell about it. I am pretty sure this is what prompted the Easter lunch invitation.

Paige learned how to make pupusas. She was slightly self conscious about her pupusas not being up to par. Everyone tried to convince her that her pupusas were fantastic, but I could tell she was not buying it. The great thing about pupusas is that it is very imperfect, there is really no wrong way to form a pupusa. (The same cannot be said for tortillas. Those are a science and if they are not the perfect thickness and round shape they will be fed to the dogs. Not that I know that from experience or anything...) Paige's pupusas were great and we had fun at lunch.

One of my host sisters, Katherine, taught Paige a hand game. It goes 'En la calle ocho esta un chucho muerto. El que diga ocho el se lo comio'. So it means 'On 8th street, there is a dead dog. Who ever says 8, has to eat it'. haha Then you each take turns alternating number. I say one, you say two, I say three, you say four. The object of the game is to not say the number 8, or whatever number you you choose between 1 and 9. So you count up skipping all numbers with 8 in them, like 18, 28, 38, all of the 80's, etc. If you forget and say a number with 8 in it, you have to eat the dead dog. It is kind of morbid, but I have heard some worse ones. haha

After several days in the campo, Paige broke down and did some laundry. (PS Girls hair is crazy long right now!) Not super exciting, but I thought it would be good to document her doing her laundry by hand.

Paige and I sitting on my front steps before our trip to the beach.

Ok so due to a miscommunication, my host family got the date of my birthday and the date of our beach departure mixed up. When I told my host mom we were leaving for the beach she had a minor freak. Apparently Joelle's old community decided they wanted to come down to my community on my birthday and sing to me. (Do you all remember when Carolyn and I did that for Joelle's birthday?) Well since I was going to be at the beach on the day they had planned to come down and sing, I had to figure out who was planning in and call it off. Luckily that was not too hard. I feel so lucky that people down here care about me so much.

Any who, we got up on my birthday and had a fantastic breakfast of french press coffee and freshly picked peached with a friend. After that we headed to the beach. Oh the beach, how I love it. Paige indulged in her first post-lent potato chips.







After we arrived at the beach, Paige insisted she have a picture taken sitting on these rocks. Oh man. It was struggle city for her to get out there. Fully clothed. Also about half way out she remembered that she had a money belt on with her passport in it. I did not know this and just sat there watching her struggle and fall and eventually make it out to the rock. She did finally make it, but while she was attempting to make it out there, among the rocks and waves, this kid just strides on out, plays for a while and then as Paige is making her way back, offers to help her. She made it back, soaked, but she got the picture, and that is all that matters right?

 

Our last days together we spent visiting some family friends of hers in the capital. We showed Paige around the fancy parts of the capital and later we all attended mass. I had accumulated a lot of clothes that needed to be washed at the beach and I asked if I could wash my clothes in their pila The family has a washer and dryer, I cannot tell you how elated I was when they offered to let me use them instead of the pila. There is just not much better than a towel straight from the dryer. 

Paige bought her ticket to come down here months ago and it seemed like it would never be time for her to come down. But here we are, in May and she has come and gone. I think the trip did both of us good.

Mango flower!!!

(As an aside, my bangs are out of control. I am rocking the combover look these days. It is not pretty, not pretty at all.)

Paige!

Paige is going to be in my community in less than four days. WHAT? I guess that means I need to do some laundry. And dishes. And clean. And grocery shop. And figure out how to get her from the airport in the one city in the country that I am not allowed visit. Actually the last one is the only one I have figured out. I did get permission to hire a driver to go to pick me up in Metapan and drive to the airport to pick Paige up and then drive us back to Metapan. Oh goody, right? Since the new PC rules, I am not allowed to take public transportation to the capital, San Salvador. Actually I am not even allowed to go to San Salvador unless it is for a medical reason or I get special permission. I did get special permission. Don't worry PC droids that read my blog, I have been permitted to fetch my friend from the airport. I just have to pay 10 times what public transportation would cost. I suppose that is what you pay for safety, right? I will go ahead and agree with that statement as I have no other choice in the matter.

Even though traveling will be a bit of a hassle, I am excited for her visit. Melida came over yesterday and was asking me about our plans. I told her Paige would be arriving on Thursday. I have a feeling Melida is planning something mischievous, but I cannot even begin to imagine what that would be. She did tell me that mass would be starting at 4AM on Easter with a parade through Metapan. So Paige if you read this get ready!

I am also excited for Paige to see my community as I have already promised to marry her to a friend of a guy in my community. What's that you say? You are outraged that I would promise my friend to a complete stranger? What can I say, it was either me or her. He did say he was a *really* hard worker. I want to believe him. He just wants a visa, and he did promise to stay with his new American wife for all of her life. What more could you want?

We will also be going to the beach for a few days. I am taking vacation and could not be more thrilled. I am hoping several of my PC friends that are still here will make it down to the beach with us. We will be headed down on my birthday, (Still time to get my birthday packages out people!), and leaving five days later. I cannot wait! I love the beach.

I have known Paige basically since we were born. Our Dads went to high school together, and as they kept in touch over the years, so did Paige and I. When my family moved to Virginia, we moved in about 5 houses down from Paige. We have had our ups and downs like any true friendship, but we have always prevailed. Paige is a rock in my life, and I cannot wait for her to see and be a part of my life down here in El Salvador!

Cheers to Paige's inevitable Salvadorian marriage and our exciting two weeks together. Pictures and stories to come!

365 Days And Counting

It's official people. I have been living in my little community in El Salvador, The Savior, for one whole year. It is crazy how time slips away. Almost every volunteer I have spoken to says that the second year flies by. And I believe it. I feel like I blinked and the last 14 months passed by. I went through two months of training, my census, more training, I got chickens and a dog, my family visited, I tried out a women's group, I had an embassy Thanksgiving, I went home for the holidays, I basked in the glory of the dry season, I enjoyed the beginning of my second mango season, I watched many of my friends leave the country early, saw Peace Corps totally restructure its program and now I am here. One year in. My bosses are visiting me tomorrow for my 'year in site visit'. It is hard to believe that this time last year I was just arriving to my community, figuring everything out. It is actually a little scary when I think about it. In 11 months and 3 weeks I am going to go back to Florida. Then what? I will be 25 and jobless. It might seem silly, but 25 seems like such a huge milestone. My Dad always says that your 20s are for doing everything you can. Do everything, go everywhere, see it all. Game on.

Now back to your regularly scheduled programing:
Sometimes I am overwhelmed by how nice people in my community are. The other day I returned from a couple days in the capital. While I was away there was a heavy rain storm. (A storm that has left an absurd amount of humidity and don't even get me started on the fact that it is supposed to be the dry season right now.) This rain storm eroded a bunch of dirt from my downward sloped front yard and made a mud block in front of my gate. So when I returned I was unable to enter through my gate. As I approached my gate and came to this realization a neighbor of mine was out. I commented to him on my inability to enter, but decided to just walk around to my host families house. Our yards are connected, so it is not a problem. I got to my house and put my bags down. Then I heard something so I went out on my porch and saw my neighbor, who had seen me unable to enter through my gate, digging out the blocked area. It only took him a few minutes to clear the area, but it meant so much to me. If he had not cleared it I would have probably avoided clearing it for at least a week and just used my host families entrance any time I needed to leave. It's the little things.

Speaking of little things, when I was in San Salvador this week I stopped at the grocery store. The grocery stores are way fancier in the capital and have a larger variety of goods. I had not planned on buying anything specific, but when I came across a bag of brussel sprouts I could not say no. I truly believe my Mom must be the best mom ever because everyone in my family loves brussel sprouts. So I bought them and had them for dinner tonight. It was fantastic. (I also purchased two Dr Peppers. Also fantastic.)

A couple of weeks ago were the elections for mayor here in El Salvador. The elections were all over the country, and due to past unrest during election time, Peace Corps put its volunteers on standfast for a few days while the elections took place. There are five main political parties (ARENA, FMLN, GANA, PDC, and PCN). There were signs for each party littering the streets of every city, pueblo, canton and casarillo. Most signs consisted of a photo of the person running and the name of the party with a huge X through it. For the longest time I thought each of the signs had been vandalized by someone who disliked that party. But I did think it was strange that these ne'er-do-wells took the time to X out every single sign in the county. But what do I know about Salvadorian politics? Maybe this is a problem that comes up every year. I eventually figured out that the X through the party name is how voting is conducted. Voting is still conducted on paper down here. So when you get your ballot you mark your vote with an X through the party you are voting for. Too confusing for me.

Baby pig! We named him Pumpkin. 

Neri, Joelle and I at a new restaurant in Metapan.
(Please ignore my terrible bangs.)

It's Never A Hair

Ok so amongst the turmoil of life down here, I have been finding solace and comfort in small things. Like discovering a singer you forgot you liked (*ahem* David Bowie) or someone totally new. Joelle introduced me to a group, The Black Keys. Their music is kind of bluesie rockish. Here is one of their songs I really like, it is kind of an odd video, but it gets stuck in your head and you end up listening to it on repeat.

I have also just been introduced to an NPR podcast called Radiolab. It is fantastic. If you are not familiar with it, you should become familiar with it. The podcasts last anywhere from 10 min to over an hour and range in topics. Basically the hosts take a topic, like a part of the brain or biblical stories or different aspects of why humans do the things we do, and they dissect it. They interview experts, play devil's advocate and try to get to the bottom of many topics. The stories they unearth are incredible and teach me about so many different topics. I encourage you to look them up. The podcasts are free to download, you know it being NPR and all. Start with Oops or Detective Stories. They are my favorite so far. 

Another great part of my life right now is the blender I just purchased. I have been contemplating buying a blender for months.  The main thing holding me back was budget. Even the cheapest blenders cost about a tenth of my monthly salary. So every month I would say to my self, this is it, this is the month I will buy a blender. And every month something else came up that required me to put it off. But February was the magic month. I put down the money and walked out of the store a happier person. I have made a licuado (smoothie) (or two) every day since the purchase. Yay for great investments!

Alex and I at the Safety and Security conference. 

My good friend Alex made an interesting observation the other day. Before we came down here to El Salvador if we felt something tickling us, it was pretty safe to assume it was a stray hair or something equally benign like a piece of string. But down here it is never a hair. It is always something terrible like a bug, so our reactions have changed significantly. Swatting, swearing and shuttering are the new and necessary reactions. When I do eventually go back to the states, and bugs are not as prevalent indoors or in my bed, I have a feeling this habit will be hard to shake. It's never a hair. 

My Salvadoran family: Orlando, Evania, Melissa
Melida, Katharine and Josselin. 

With all of the drama going down in PC down here I am so glad to have really exciting events happening in the next few months. First one of my closest friends is coming to visit. Paige and I have known each other, basically since we were in utero. Our dads went to high school together and when my family moved to Virginia, we moved into a house just down the street from Paige and her family. They are like a second family. She is coming for almost two weeks and I am thrilled! Also in May I am taking another trip to the states. I was not expecting to make it back again during my service but a couple of my friends from my time in Little Rock are getting married and I just cannot pass up the opportunity to celebrate with them. I am taking a mini one week vacation, flying in and out of Boston. So family and friends in the greater Boston area, get ready! 

The other day I was at a lunch with some people in my community, including my host dad Orlando. The man whose house we were at was commenting how he wished he could lay down in his hammock, but his dog had ripped a hole in it. Orlando pipes up that he can fix it, no problem. This is when Orlando whips out his sweet hammock making skills that I never knew he had. On the walk back to our houses, we start talking about how he could put this skill to good use and make a little money. So I am going to go into Metapan on Friday and talk to the owner of a tienda I know of and see if he would be willing to sell Orlando's hammocks. Also I am hoping to sell a few while I am in the states. Let me know if you are interested! It is supporting a family that supports me everyday.

Happy Leap Day!

Ground Control To Major Tom

It has been almost a month since I posted. Lo siento a todos.  Per usual I have written out a series of stories, thoughts and updates for your entertainment

First of all let me give you all an update on the status of the Peace Corps in El Salvador. A couple of weeks ago we had a security conference. Members of the PC Washington staff came down and all of the volunteers and in country staff gathered to listen to what they had to say. Several issues were brought up regarding our safety. Basically El Salvador has one of the highest homicide rates in the world. Also something like one in seven volunteers has been a victim of a violent crime. Most of these crimes happen when we are out of our communities, on public transportation or in the capital. Right now we are in the middle of a two week safety and security assessment. Part of the assessment team came up to my corner of El Salvador to get a general sense of how the volunteers up here feel safety wise. I am very lucky to be living in one of the safest areas of the country. One option PCES is considering is clustering the volunteers around the safest areas of the country. Hopefully if that is implemented I will not have to re-locate. I can hardly imagine starting over in a new site this far into my service. Speaking of that, I am officially half way through my time in El Salvador! How crazy is that? In less than 13 months, I will be headed back to the states. 

When I came back to El Salvador from my winter vacation, I brought back my Dad's computer. My computer bit the dust shortly before arriving home and I have been so grateful that he was willing to give up his so that I might have some sanity. The other day I was browsing through his iTunes and started listing to my Dad's vast David Bowie collection. Now I cannot stop listening, Bowie is great. I keep being reminded of this time in high school that my Dad and I went to this little grungy movie theater somewhere in DC and saw a documentary called Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders From Mars. I remember David Bowie blowing my mind then as well. I also remember thinking my Dad was pretty cool, which was a big feat for a time in my life when most kids tend to think their parents are lame.

My Girls

So in this time of uncertainty down here, when volunteers are being forced to change sites, projects are put on hold and I am listening to too much Bowie, some of my closest friends have decided to leave early. I won't name names just yet, as the wounds are still too fresh. Volunteers come into the Peace Corps knowing that once we are put in our communities, there is a chance that we will have little to no interaction with other volunteers. Sites are rural and volunteers are placed all over these countries so it is not surprising. El Salvador has a unique program since the country is so small. El Salvador being about the size of Massachusetts, averaging 130 volunteers and having easy access to the capital make it really easy for us to stay close. It also helps that we have a great phone plan so we can call each other for free. I had a really fantastic training group, and really bonded with several girls. Two of them were placed in communities close to me. We met every week to grab breakfast, grocery shop and vent about crazy experiences. One of them is already back in the states and the other will be back within two weeks. It feels surreal. So even though I am staying in my community, I can already feel that this next year will be quite different than I initially expected. (God having no expectations is hard.)

More to come soon!